Technology Hi Arnold, I’d love to just post all the mods and methods allowing this affordable printer the insane accuracy from a cantilever style printer. The screws used to mount the hot-end have threads too fine for the application and the violent clunking. Depending on the severity of the clunking, re-calibrate the print-bed level and check the hot-end mount fastening system. When finished a few extrude cycles, leave the fan running til the temperature is below 50deg C (I wait til less than 40degC for all print-jobs, always). Then, with the fan running, perform another extrude cycle or two. Let the filament start extruding and after 10-15 seconds turn the fan on and let it run through an extrude cycle. Instead, increase the temperature just beyond the filament’s max temp without running the fan cooling system and use the extrude function within the maintenance menu in UpStudio. I don’t recommend using a tool that abrasively taints the slippery surface of the upper nozzle interior if cleaning the nozzle to unclog the filament pathway. The moisture in the nozzle heat-zone gathers into a steam bubble and erupts spewing melted plastic upwards(and downwards), the eruptions upward break through the top of the heat-zone flinging melted plastic around the solid filament increasing the diameter which then creates too much friction for the motor’s available torque and/or a larger diameter filament being forced into the narrower opening of the heat chamber and clunk…clunk…clunk the motor churns. It’s important to keep the top of the heat-zone in the nozzle at same position, when the fan is turned off before the heat-cartridge has cooled sufficiently the heat creeps upward and relocates the top of the heat-zone, which is then out-of-range for the temperature you extrude the plastic creating a semi-hardened top to the melted plastic below and clunk…clunk…clunk the motor churns to break through that semi-hardened plastic.Įdit: I should also mention in case others are reading this thread, moisture in filament is likely more often experienced compared to filament shavings. Those other ducts will not fit a stock printer. I have yet to experience nozzle clog and have not cleaned a nozzle even once. Filament shavings and heat-creep if the fan is turned off above 50deg C are the two main reasons for nozzle clog. If you’re wondering why the rail-side is lacking any air control, there’s another duct for the other side that cools the motor, the filament entry point and also directs any filament shavings away from the filament entry. , if the fit is close but needs to be tweaked let me know and I’ll make small changes.
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